Trekking in Laos
After touring just about every small town in Northwestern Laos for some trekking (please don't ask), we finally ended up in the small village of Vieng Phouka.
Trekking from Vieng Phouka is handled by Laos’ Department of Tourism, and it has only slowly been developed over the last two years. This is what attracted us to trekking in this area -- we hoped the surrounding jungles and hill tribes would be less trafficked and more authentic (and the villagers perhaps less cynical to the idea of tourists traipsing through their villages and ogling them).
Our guides turned out to be the friendly and chatty Bouaila and the quiet but capable Mr. Kam Pen. Our first day started with a short drive with a few stops to visit some local villages (Lahu and Hmong) and a brief exploration of a nearby cave (the Prasat Cave). At the end of the road we stopped to enjoy a basic but tasty lunch. But just as we were finishing up, our peace was disrupted by the arrival of several trucks which offloaded no less then 21 (yes, 21!) Dutch package tourists. Disaster! Are we really to be tailed by (or tailing) this huge group? What happened to our quiet and little-known trekking region? Possibly seeing the concern on our faces, Bouaila quickly assured us that we would be going on a different route. Relieved, we were able to sit back and watch the entertainment that was unfolding … 21 older, rounder white people taking great care to traverse a 10m long rickety bamboo bridge while most of the local villagers stood by looking on with obvious amusement.
True to his word, Bouaila lead us off the road, across the bridge (I hope we were less entertaining than the Dutchies), down a tiny path, and into the steaming jungle. We crossed more rickety bamboo bridges, slipped along muddy trails, and were attacked by legions of blood-sucking leeches -- now we know why the rainy season is also the low season! After a couple of hours, a few falls, and the loss of about a pint of blood, we arrived at the Khmu village where we would stay for the first night. We were introduced to the head man and his family (we would stay in his home as per custom), and then we were shown where we could bathe (in the nearby river) and where the toilet facilities were (there weren’t any; you had to find a quiet spot at the edge of the village!). After a quick ‘bath,’ we played with the local children, and then enjoyed a traditional Khmu dinner of sticky rice, soup, and assorted vegetable dishes. Finally, it was time for bed.
Although we had a later start than we would have liked (9:30am) on Day 2, we still managed to get a good long walk in, mostly uphill. The area is very beautiful, very green and very lush. And still very leech-filled! Fortunately, Ulrik got fewer bites today thanks to the incredibly sharp eyes of our guides and their special leech-repellant concoction. At around 3:30pm we arrived at the Akha village where we would spend the night. Located on a hill top, it had absolutely stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The village was quite a bit larger than the Khmu village; there was a spirit gate, a school, a meeting area, two giant spirit swings (used to celebrate the rice harvest), and a large population of children and domestic animals. When we arrived most adults where still in the rice field, but all the kids ran to greet us, singing a little song which Bouaila explained was about being happy to see us. The kids are just so adorable, but very, very dirty (water has to be carried uphill for 30min). After playing with the children, we enjoyed the rest of the afternoon on our ‘front porch.’
The adults returned to the village around 5:00pm, but they were either shy, busy, or uninterested, and most just took a look at us and wandered off. After dinner (and after darkness had fallen), we heard a strange and haunting singing coming from some huts on the outskirts of the village. Bouaila told us that Akha women and men don't sleep in the same room, and that the young unmarried women stay in huts outside the village (something to do with an ancient story about an Akha man finding the first Akha women as a spirit in forest). When they want to get the attention of the young men, the women sing songs to make them come to them. Whatever the reason, the singing was incredibly beautiful.
Our last day was a long one, or, at least, it felt like it with the rain, the mud, and all the leeches! Although Lee somehow managed to avoid getting any bites (which she smugly credits to her gaiters and bug spray), I, on the other hand, was dying a death by a thousand sharp and pointy teeth. Staggering back onto the sealed road, we were tired, wet, and above all, mighty dirty. The driver for our lift back to town (the same who drove us out on the first day), made us put our muddy shoes in the back, and, after making us roll all the windows down, told Lee that we "no smell good". No kidding.
Despite the mud and leeches, we enjoyed our trek in Laos. We would have enjoyed it a bit more, however, if we’d spent more time walking, and had more meaningful interaction with the villagers. It would have been great to see more of their daily lives and to, perhaps, even participate in some of their daily activities (e.g. food preparation, washing, etc.). But I suppose it's a fine balance between observation, participation, and disruption.
For more photos, see our Trekking in Northern Laos photo album.
